10 March 2026 - Updated at 01:10
×

at the table

If the alien species fights by eating it: the example of the lionfish and Greece

The spines are poisonous, the meat is good: when cooking and market become tools to protect biodiversity

09 March 2026, 20:00

If the alien species fights by eating it: the example of the lionfish and Greece

Follow us

Passa alla versione italiana

On board the training ship M/Y Klelia I, off the coast of Greece, chef Ilias Kyiazoli carefully handles a fish that looks magnificent but is treacherous. With the help of a pair of tongs, he removes the venomous spines one by one before moving on to cooking the flesh. The star of the dish is not a "noble" inhabitant of the Mare Nostrum, but rather an invader as fascinating as it is harmful: the lionfish.

Its presence tells the story of the new normality of Mediterranean biodiversity, but also of an unprecedented, tasty adaptation strategy. Native to the Indo-Pacific, the lionfish reached our waters through the Suez Canal, settling in Cyprus in 2012 and rapidly spreading towards the Aegean and the Ionian.

This expansion is typical of biological invasions, favored by climate change: a Mediterranean that is about 1.5 °C warmer in recent decades has significantly prolonged the breeding season.

The numbers alarm marine biologists: a single mature female can release up to 2 million eggs per year, with spawning occurring at intervals of just 3-4 days.

The success of this species is ensured by a formidable biological arsenal: 18 venomous spines deter predators, while local prey prove completely "naive" in the face of its ambush tactics. Experts estimate that, in the absence of targeted interventions, the lionfish could reduce some fish populations by up to 30% within just ten years.

The ones paying the price are mainly the artisanal fishermen of Greece and Cyprus, who report damaged nets, physical risks related to stings, and economic losses between 600 and 1,345 euros per year per boat.

Yet, the Mediterranean is trying to turn an environmental threat into an economic and gastronomic opportunity. Campaigns like “Pick The Alien” by the Greek NGO iSea convey an unequivocal message: “Eat it to beat it”. The goal is to normalize the consumption of alien species, creating a market demand that encourages fishermen to remove them from the seabed.

In Cyprus, where the invasion is most advanced, the price of lionfish is already competitive and several taverns offer it with great feedback. However, many consumers remain skeptical about food safety. It is true that the spines contain a toxin that is dangerous for those who handle them — a poison that is deactivated by heat — but the flesh, once properly cleaned, is completely safe.

In the kitchen, the invader proves to be surprisingly versatile: the firm and slightly sweet flesh is excellent for raw dishes like ceviche and tiradito, for light frying, and for enriching traditional fish soups, such as the famous Greek kakavia.

Choosing to consume alien species is therefore not just a culinary trend, but a genuine act of active biodiversity management. For the system to work, traceable supply chains, prepared restaurateurs, and, above all, aware consumers are needed. Today, to safeguard the Mediterranean ecosystems, the most ecological move at our disposal might be to pick up fork and knife.